The Challenge of Buying Less
How to actually shop less, save money, and be more sustainable.
Back in 2019, I set myself a challenge: buy everything second-hand. Clothes, homewares, electronics… If I needed it, I had to thrift it. I called it my year of second-hand, and it completely changed how I shop, forever.
I quickly realised that not only was it possible to find everything I needed second-hand, but it was also ridiculously easy. A quick search on Vinted or browse in a charity shop, and there it was. Most things turned up almost instantly, and the few items that took a little longer showed up eventually.
Not only did I save a huge amount of money, but I also stopped contributing to the endless cycle of overproduction and waste. By the end of the year, I had no desire to go back to buying new. At least, not unless I really needed to.
Second-hand is now my default. My 50(ish) item capsule wardrobe is almost entirely thrifted, and last year, I bought just two new items. Yes, two. So when I came across the rule of five—a challenge to buy no more than five new clothing items per year—I was excited.
After more than a decade of writing about sustainable fashion (and living it), I know a thing or two about changing your shopping habits in a way that is both sustainable and realistic. And I love it when I can help others do the same.
Why Our Current Shopping Habits Are Unsustainable
We all know that fast fashion is terrible for the planet, but the scale of the problem is much bigger than most people realise.
The average person in the UK buys around 28 new items of clothing per year, but they only wear just over half of them. The rest is barely worn, if at all, before being thrown away or forgotten about.
More than a third of Brits admit they don’t need most of what they buy, yet they keep shopping anyway. This constant cycle of overconsumption is exactly what fuels the fashion industry’s environmental crisis.
If we want to reduce the environmental impact of fashion, we have to start with our own habits. It really is that simple.
Where Did the 'Rule of Five' Come From?
The Rule of Five comes from a report published in November 2022 by the Hot or Cool Institute, a Berlin-based think tank focused on sustainability.
Their report, Unfit, Unfair, Unfashionable, laid out a stark reality: if we want to meet the global target of limiting warming to 1.5°C by 2030, we need to seriously rethink how we consume fashion.
One of their biggest recommendations: Buying no more than five new clothing items per year.
It’s a bold challenge, but it’s an important one. The fashion industry is a major contributor to climate change, and our overconsumption of clothing only fuels this cycle. The less we buy, the less we contribute to the problem.
The Rule of Five is more than just an environmental call to action. It’s also a wake-up call for our personal shopping habits. A chance to change our ways, save money, and stop shopping just for the sake of it.
Could You Buy Less Than 5 Items a Year?
From my years working in sustainable fashion, I’ve learned that people have a habit of severely underestimating how many clothes they own, and how many they buy.
If you think you have a “small wardrobe” and you’re already buying 5 new items or fewer each year, I challenge you to create a wardrobe inventory and start tracking your purchases.
By the end of the year, you might be shocked at how much you’ve actually bought, how much you’ve spent, and just how little of your wardrobe you’re wearing.
Buying 5 items or less may be more challenging than you think!
5 Items or Less: The Rules
What's Allowed:
Undergarments (lingerie, tights, socks, etc.)
Renting, swapping, borrowing
Making, mending, and altering
Second-hand clothing*
Let’s not make this harder than it needs to be by banning thrifting! Second-hand shopping doesn’t fuel fast fashion or add to its environmental impact. Recent research shows it actually scratches the shopping itch, so we end up buying less brand-new stuff.
What's Not Allowed:
Buying more than 5 new items (clothes, shoes, or bags)
Where we choose to shop matters just as much as how we spend our money. Buying five items from fast fashion brands isn’t the same as buying five items from small, handmade businesses. Not even close.
A fast fashion purchase supports mass production, exploitative labour, and an industry that thrives on overconsumption. A purchase from a small, independent brand supports ethical production, fair wages, and thoughtfully made, small-batch pieces designed to last.
If we treat them as equals, we risk losing the brands that are trying to do better. That’s not the goal.
To create real alternatives to fast fashion, we need to actively support these businesses. So when taking on a low-buy challenge like the Rule of Five, I encourage you to make an exception for small, independent brands.
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How to Actually Buy Less (Without Feeling Deprived)
Going from shopping all the time or buying whatever you want to limiting yourself to just five items or less is a big ask. Not everyone will hit that target on the first try—and that's okay! The goal here is to significantly reduce your purchases and embrace a more intentional approach to shopping.
Step 1: Set a Shopping Plan
The first step to buying less is setting some clear, realistic rules. What will you allow yourself to buy this year? What’s off-limits? If shopping has become a regular habit—something you do almost every week—trying to stop completely overnight isn’t realistic. The goal is to make intentional changes, not set yourself up for failure.
A couple of things will help you stay on track. First, create a visual wish list of items you need or want. Seeing everything in one place will help you shop with intention rather than impulse. Second, keep a wardrobe inventory. Tracking what you already own and what you’ve bought will make you think twice before adding something new.
Step 2: Unsubscribe & Unfollow
Identify your shopping triggers—be it influencer hauls, enticing offers, or marketing pressure—and eliminate them to reduce temptation. Unfollow influencers who promote excessive consumption, unsubscribe from newsletters that push spending, and delete your payment details from online stores. Whenever you feel the urge to shop, pinpoint the source and remove it from your life.
Step 3: Shop Second-hand
Before buying anything new, check if you can find it second-hand first. My year of second-hand shopping proved that almost everything can be thrifted. From charity shops to vintage stores and online marketplaces, there are countless ways to shop sustainably without adding to the demand for new clothing.
Let’s address the idea of "overconsumption" in thrifting. Some argue that buying second-hand is as harmful as new purchases, but I strongly disagree and this report backs me up! There are enough clothes on the planet to dress the next six generations. The real issue is the massive volume of new clothing produced daily, not our decision to thrift.
Swapping, borrowing, and renting are also great options. If you only need an outfit for a special occasion, renting or borrowing makes more sense than buying something you’ll wear just once. These options keep fashion circular, reduce waste, and prevent a wardrobe bloated filled with rarely worn clothes.
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Step 4: Track Purchases
Get into the habit of writing down everything you buy, along with the date you bought it. It sounds simple, but seeing your purchases laid out in black and white can be eye-opening. You might think you don’t shop that much… until you have the receipts to prove otherwise.
I track all my purchases, both new and second-hand, in my wardrobe inventory. I note what I bought, how much I spent, and how often I actually wear each item. It's easy to underestimate how much we shop when we're relying on memory. So if you want to make more sustainable choices, this step is crucial. When it's all there in front of you, there's no hiding from those impulse buys!
Step 5: Outfit Repeating and Restyling
Challenge yourself to restyle your wardrobe instead of chasing the quick thrill of buying something new. Experiment with clothes in unexpected ways, play around with layering, and use accessories to refresh your outfits. You’ll not only get more wear out of what you already own but also refine a personal style that feels more like you—without adding to your wardrobe.
Creating mini-capsules for different seasons, aesthetics, or travel plans is a great way to reimagine your wardrobe, discover new outfit combinations, and make the most of what you already own. I’ve written style guides with capsule wardrobe examples to help you maximise your existing wardrobe—because sometimes, the solution isn’t to buy more, but to style better.